Spring is the awkward stretch for shoes. Boots feel heavy the moment the sun comes out, but it is not warm enough for a strappy sandal and the ground is still wet half the week. The shoes that solve it all have one thing in common: they cover the foot without looking like winter.

The four styles that carry spring

  • Closed flats and ballet styles. The default. Covered, easy with a midi dress, and fine on a cool morning. See flats.
  • Slingbacks and woven uppers. A closed toe with an open back, which is exactly the right amount of air for fifteen to twenty-five degrees.
  • Low wedges. Height with stability, and they handle grass and uneven paths better than a fine heel. See heels and wedges.
  • Knit slip-ons. For walking days, without looking like sports shoes. See comfort shoes.

When to actually switch to sandals

Two practical tests rather than a date: are you leaving the house before eight without wanting socks, and has it been dry for three days. In Sydney and Perth that usually arrives in October; in Melbourne and Hobart, closer to November. Until then a closed shoe is the more comfortable choice, and it does not date the outfit.

When the switch does come, the criteria for a comfortable pair are in how to choose comfortable sandals, and there is a full range in sandals.

Getting the proportion right with a midi

Most spring outfits involve a mid-calf hem, and that is where shoes make or break the line. A shoe that cuts across the ankle with a strap shortens the leg; a slingback, a flat with a low vamp or a wedge with a single strap keeps it long. If you are wearing an ankle strap, a slightly higher heel balances it out.

Comfort points worth checking

Spring means more walking than winter did, often in shoes that have been in a cupboard for six months. Check the footbed gives under your thumb, that your heel does not lift as you walk, and that the widest part of your foot sits inside the sole rather than over its edge. A cushioned base matters more than the heel height does.

Try new shoes on in the afternoon and walk in them for five minutes on a hard floor. Every rubbing point shows up in that five minutes.

Two pairs will do

For most of spring you need one closed flat that goes with everything and one low wedge for anything dressier. Add a knit slip-on if you walk a lot. That is two or three pairs covering the whole season, and all of them stay useful into summer with a dress. See how they sit in an outfit in the spring outfit guide.

Common questions

Are closed shoes or sandals better in spring?

Closed for the first half, sandals for the second. A slingback or woven flat bridges the two, because it covers the toes and still lets air through.

What shoes go with a spring midi dress?

A closed flat for daytime and a low wedge or block heel for anything more formal. Keep the strap detail minimal at the ankle so the mid-calf hem does not shorten the leg.

What should I wear to a race meeting in spring?

A block heel or wedge, never a stiletto on grass. The whole outfit is covered in what to wear to the races.

Melba Lane